Dual Monitor Disaster

More Display Space = Greater Productivity?

Some months ago, in considering how I could be more productive and get some of my work done faster, I wondered whether one answer might be more display space than my 17-inch CRT offers.

NOTE

Remember that screen size is measured diagonally and the visible space on a CRT is roughly 1 inch less than the listed number, so a 17-inch CRT really has a roughly 16-inch diagonal. (LCD measurements, on the other hand, reflect actual turf.)

* What if I could do tricks like the following?
* View a full 8½-by-11-inch page
* See two pages side by side
* Display a browser window alongside my word processor window
* Have windows open on mail, news, calendar, schedule, and buddy list—all visible concurrently

As it turns out, I’m not the only one with this idea. Aside from the obvious reality that bigger monitors are available, and increasingly common in other peoples’ offices, in a recent press release, NEC cited some examples of how increasing screen space has dramatically improved productivity for organizations such as Forbes.com.

Like me, you may be tantalized by the possibility of more screen space—but also, like me, feeling that dangerous combination of frugal and adventurous. This article covers some techniques and products that you can try. A few notes before we jump right in:

* I haven’t tried all of these methods, so I can’t vouch for how well they’ll work—although I hope to try one or two more approaches in the months to come, notably the MaxiVista software hack.
* Your computer, workspace, budget, or other constraints may not accommodate some of these suggestions.
* Some of the advice, workarounds, and/or products here are Windows-specific. This shouldn’t be construed as an endorsement or recommendation for any particular OS. I know that Linux and Mac OS computers can handle multiple monitors, but that’s all I know so far; I haven’t had a chance to play with my Linux installation yet.
* If you’re running Windows, one marginal (but free) space-making tweak is to banish as many of the toolbars as possible, starting with the Windows Taskbar.
The Simplest Solution: Buy a Bigger Monitor

One way to get more display space is to buy a bigger monitor. Inarguably, this is the simplest solution: Buy new monitor, connect new monitor.

Prices have certainly come down. New 17-inch CRTs are selling for less than $150 or even $100, 19-inchers in the $150–250 range, and 21-inchers in the $200–500 range...and old-but-still-working CRTs can be found for $10 or $20 dollars at yard sales—or even free by the side of the road.

Flat-panel LCDs—like what notebook computers use—have come down in price and up in size in the past few years; a 19-inch LCD can be found in the low $200 range, and 21-inchers starting around $400. (Prices come from quick checks on Newegg.com.)

On the other hand, a good 20- or 21-inch LCD can run $600 to more than $1,000. As a friend advised me recently, "If you stare at that screen all day, you’ll want the best monitor you can afford. Your eyes will thank you."

You may even already have a good, biggish LCD—but want still more screen turf—and don’t want to throw away your existing investment. A second similar-sized LCD (and possibly a new video card—see below) may be cheaper than a bigger LCD, or give you significantly more display space. Other possible reasons you may want/need a better and therefore more expensive monitor include doing graphic design/production, video editing, watching DVDs or other high-quality video, or gaming.

Were money no object, I’d order that big, high-quality flat screen tomorrow. I’m not prepared to do that quite yet. I’m not even ready to compromise with a lower-end 19-inch LCD, although that’s tempting. So I’ve been pursuing alternate approaches—with, as you’ll see, mixed results.
The two-monitor configuration is called twin-head, also known as dual-head. This approach can be less expensive in cash outlay, although probably more effort-intensive than getting and plugging in that new, larger monitor.

If you use your computer professionally, and like being prepared, you should already have a second monitor kicking around as a spare, in case your main monitor goes kablooey at 11:30 at night. If you don’t already have one kicking around, or your spare is smaller, you may be able to snarf a second monitor for $25 or less from a friend, yard sale, or your town’s recycle bin (which is how I went from no backup CRT to having four or five in my basement).

For purposes of cost comparison, assume that you could get an adequate 19-inch or better flat-panel display for $150–200. And if you have the budget for multiple LCDs, there are some lovely but pricey multi-screen LCD display units, such as those from NEC (see Figure 2) and Digital Tigers’ Zenview frames. Yum!
What Your Second Monitor Shows: Several Modes

Generally, when you connect a second monitor to a computer, it duplicates what’s showing on the primary screen. Fn+F7 (your notebook’s function key plus the F7 key) should toggle between display 1, display 2 ,and both displays.

Aside from simply having the other monitor(s) duplicate what’s on the main monitor—useful only for doing demos—some (but not all) of the multiple monitor solutions offered below will support additional, more useful configurations:

* Extended mode, also called single multi-monitor mode or extended desktop mode, dual-view, or independent displays mode. In this mode, according to the Realtime Soft’s Multi-Monitor Resources FAQ, "all monitors connected to the installed video cards form a single desktop, you can move the mouse and applications to any monitor. Each monitor can use different settings (resolution, color depth and refresh rate)."
* Use span (or stretched) mode, in which Windows thinks you’re just using one wider monitor. According to Realtime FAQ, span mode "is mainly useful for forcing applications which have no native multi-monitor support to use all available monitors. For example, most games will only run on the primary monitor."

The following sections take a look at options, what you’ll need, and some debugging tricks. Disclaimer: I’ve only been trying out the two-port video card solution; everything else I’m simply reporting as a possibility.
Fishing for Windows: A Useful Trick To Know

Based on my experiences so far, there’s a good chance that something may go awry when you reconfigure. Before you do any tinkering or tweaking, I suggest you spend a minute to determine one piece of information and try using one Windows feature. (Remember, this tip is for Windows users; Linux/Mac OS users are on their own.)

The reason for this advice: After booting, suppose your secondary screen displays, but the primary one is blank. How can you get to Control Panel to reconfigure your video settings? You could try "fishing for windows"; that is, trying to "cast" your cursor to the dark screen to grab a window and drag it to the secondary monitor. Fortunately, it turns out that you can select and move a window by using the keyboard—but you’ll have to know what keys to press because the primary monitor is blank, remember?

So, before setting up the second monitor, perform the following procedure and write down (on paper) what keys you had to press to get to Control Panel, which is the window you’ll need to drag over to the working display so that you can reconfigure the video settings.

1. Open the Start menu by pressing the Windows key on your keyboard (the key has a picture of the Windows logo). If your keyboard doesn’t have this key, press Ctrl+Esc.
2. If you could see the Start menu, you would be able to use the arrow keys to select Control Panel on the Start menu and press Enter. (If you don’t have a Control Panel option on your menu, you probably have a Settings option or equivalent, which can get you to Control Panel.) But you won’t be able to see the Start menu if you’re working blind, so instead press the accelerator key (the key matching the underlined letter on the menu item you want) or the first letter of the menu option. Depending on your settings, you’ll probably press the C key for Control Panel; for Settings, the S key.
3. You may need to press the key multiple times as Windows cycles through all the options on the Start menu that respond to that key. Remember to write down how many times you had to press the key.

Once you get Control Panel open—writing down any additional keys you had to press to get there—you’re ready to start moving the window. Here’s the procedure:

1. Press Alt+Spacebar to open the control menu in the window’s upper-left corner.
2. Press the M key (for Move).
3. Using the arrow keys, move the Control Panel window, "dragging" it from the dark primary screen to the working secondary one. (You’ll probably need to drag it to the right.)

Adding to or Replacing Your Desktop’s Video Card

Okay, now let’s discuss your surgical ("open the box") options.

For desktop computers, assuming that you don’t already have two simultaneously usable video outputs (your second output might be good only for displaying TV output), you’ll need to add a second video card or replace the existing one with a two-port video card.

Adding a card is likely to be the best option because it uses dedicated hardware, attaching the video card directly to the motherboard. Alternatively, you try some of the approaches in the later section "Half a Dozen or So Ways To Connect Additional Monitors."

Adding or replacing a video card relies on several key assumptions:

* You can open your desktop computer—it’s not a sealed unit.
* Adding/replacing components doesn’t void the warranty, or you don’t care that it does.
* Your desktop PC uses standard (enough) parts that you can swap/add a new video card.
* There’s room on the motherboard for another video card. You may be able to use a PCI-to-PCI expander to provide additional outboard slots for another video card, but this may not be the most cost-effective solution. A new twin-head–capable computer would probably be less expensive (and clunky).
* Your current video/graphics processor isn’t part of an integrated motherboard, or if it is you know how to work around this situation relatively easily.

Of course, you could buy a new computer that already includes multi-monitor video cards. This is an extreme solution, but has the advantage of being prebuilt to do this, so they dang well should work right!
Cards and Slots

Assuming that you can either replace or add a video card, your next step is to determine options/constraints:

* Is your current video card PCI, AGP, or PCI Express?
* What, if any, slots does your motherboard still have available?

If you aren’t sure what you’ve got, ask a more knowledgeable friend, an expert at the store where you bought the computer, etc. Scott Mueller, author of Que’s Upgrading and Repairing PCs, 16th Edition and several other upgrading and repairing books, describes the issues as follows:

PCI is a 1992 vintage interface designed for general-purpose add-on cards as well as video cards. AGP is a 1996 vintage interface that was based on PCI, but solely designed to support a single video card in a system, thus giving the video card an exclusive communications channel. Only a single AGP slot is supported in a system.

PCI Express (PCIe) is a completely new (2002 vintage) serial interface. PCIe is designed to eventually replace both PCI and AGP in newer systems. PCIe slots (and cards) are generally found in 1-lane (PCIe x1) or 16-lane (PCIe x16) versions, with most general-purpose add-on cards being of the x1 type and video cards being of the x16 type. Most motherboards featuring PCIe slots will have only a single x16 slot along with multiple x1 slots; however, some motherboards have two or three x16 slots, allowing for multiple video cards.

Newegg.com advises, "While the graphics card’s GPU determines the product’s application and performance, it is vital to pay attention to the interface utilized by the graphics card. Currently, these cover PCI, AGP, and the cutting-edge PCI Express (PCIe) specification, which are paired exclusively to the PCI, AGP, and PCI Express slots on the motherboard, respectively. The graphics card interface must match the motherboard slot for successful installation. Consult the computer or motherboard manufacturer before selecting your video card if you are uncertain of your motherboard’s slots."

My advice: If you have a computer friend or shop you trust, ask what type of slots—and how many—you have, and what will/won’t work with your motherboard. If you didn’t buy this computer there, you may have to bring it in so your friend or shop can take a look.
Buying a Video Card

Once you know what your options are in terms of video cards, it’s time to go shopping. Depending on what type of outputs your new video card has and what type(s) of monitors you have, you may need a DVI-M to VGA-F converter. (It’s a simple, small adapter.) Some video cards include one.

If you’re looking for a two-port card, rather than an additional video card, be sure the one you select really supports two simultaneous monitors, rather than just having two outputs. For example, according to the Realtime Soft FAQ, "Some cards advertised as supporting two monitors will only accept a TV as the secondary display, or won’t support use of both connectors at the same time."

Depending on your computing needs, a new video card will run anywhere from $50—good enough for standard office and Internet apps—to more than $1,000 for high-end gaming, video editing, graphic production, and so on. Well-known brands include Asus, ATI, Crucial, Diamond, eVGA, Matrox, MSI, nVidia, and PNY.

NOTE

Don’t forget about memory issues—make sure your new card has enough megabytes of its own RAM, typically anywhere from 64MB to 256MB. As Newegg.com points out, "[It’s] important to check the I/O port(s) required by your display device(s), and the recommended amount of graphics memory required by the 3D games you want to run."

Don’t overlook clearance and remaindered video cards, if you feel comfortable with the store/site. Depending on how old your computer is, you may have to go the remainder pile anyway. I ended up getting an NVIDIA GeForce card on clearance for less than $50 from the local white-box shop I patronize. (See the section "Reasons To Consider a White Box Vendor" in my article "Buying a Non-Branded ’White Box’ PC.") For my needs, this option was recommended as better than one of the new $120-ish cards. I actually got two, since I plan to try twin-heading on two different desktops, desk space permitting.

I didn’t install my new video card; the computer store did it for me while adding some other components. (I’ll try doing the second one myself, though.) But the process of installing a new video card is straightforward enough:

1. Unplug the computer.
2. Don an anti-static glove.
3. Open the CPU box.
4. Remove the existing card.
5. Install the new card.
6. Close the CPU box.
7. Power up.
8. Get/install new drivers. Windows XP should recognize the card enough for it to work, but you’ll want the right drivers. Once your system has booted, go to Device Manager by opening Control Panel and going to System (Settings) and then Hardware.
9. Configure as needed.
10. Enjoy.

Half a Dozen or So Other Ways To Connect Additional Monitors

If you can’t replace or add another video card inside your computer—you’ve got a notebook, a nonstandard desktop, or whatever—you still have a number of other options. In more or less increasing order of invasiveness—how much you have to open the box and play hardware wrangler—these are your choices:

1. Notebook computer plus additional monitor
2. Notebook as a second monitor
3. PCMCIA video card for notebook
4. Notebook docking station with video card
5. External USB video cards for desktop or notebook
6. PCMCIA-to-PCI expander for notebook
7. Other "outboard" solutions for desktop or notebook

Remember that I haven’t tried any of these tricks yet; attempt at your own risk. I’ll explain each option briefly in the following sections.

NOTE

Realtime Soft’s Laptops guide provides more nitty-gritty details on some of these choices.
Notebook Computer Plus Additional Monitor

If you have a notebook computer with a video port, you can plug in an external monitor. By pressing Fn+F7, you should be able to toggle among three options: 1) use the notebook monitor; 2) use the external monitor; and 3) display to both monitors. If you’re using an external keyboard that doesn’t have an Fn key, you’ll have to use the notebook’s keyboard.

NOTE

According to several expert friends, the Fn key is an IBM special, which "talks" directly to the BIOS. Non-IBM notebooks may also have one, but don’t expect to find this key on external keyboards.

Depending on your OS and the notebook hardware, you may be able to configure them in multiple-monitor mode. To do this in Windows XP, open Control Panel, open the Display applet, and find Display Properties and/or Settings. Once you get there, play with the "Extend my Windows desktop onto this monitor" setting. Carefully.

If you can’t manage to get the additional monitor to work with your notebook, you’ll need a second video card, or a video card with two or more ports.
Notebook as a Second Monitor

If you have a desktop PC and monitor as well as a notebook, or two notebook computers, you may be able to use a notebook as a second monitor by networking the two computers together and using a special-purpose program such as Bartels Media’s MaxiVista. According to the vendor’s website, "MaxiVista installs a virtual video driver onto your primary PC which fools Windows into thinking that an additional monitor is installed." Note that you can use MaxiVista in addition to other multiple-monitor solutions.

The computers need to be connected via a network connection (Ethernet, Wireless LAN, FireWire, or USB-to-USB cables), and the primary machine (the "server") needs to be running Windows 2000 or XP.

Price for one license (one "server") are Standard, $29.95; Professional, $39.94; Mirror Pro, $49.94. A 14-day free trial is available for the Standard version. The Pro edition supports up to three secondary systems.
PCMCIA Video Card for Notebook

Notebook users can try using a PCMCIA video card, such as the VTBook DualHead, which runs about $80. I’m sure there are other vendors as well.
Notebook Docking Station with Video Card

Some notebook users may be able to buy a docking station that includes or accepts a video card. Realtime Soft cautions that not all laptops support this feature: "Some will turn off the built-in monitor when they detect a video card in the docking station."
External USB Video Cards for Desktop or Notebook

External USB video cards are another obvious approach for either desktop or notebook computers. There don’t seem to be a lot of these available. Googling turns up a couple of options:

* TRITTON Technologies’ SEE2 USB 2.0 SVGA Adapter
* Telegnosis’ USB 2.0 VGA adapter

PCMCIA-to-PCI Expander for Notebook

Notebook users may have another—albeit pricey—choice: a PCMCIA-to-PCI expander, such as Magma’s Slot CardBus to PCI Expansion.
Other "Outboard" Solutions for Desktop or Notebook

These options might really belong in the earlier PCMCIA or USB categories, but I thought I’d call them out as a separate group.

For somewhere in the $150–170 range, Matrox Graphics’ DualHead2Go expands a single-monitor output across multiple displays. For example, you could connect two outboard monitors to your notebook, for a total of up to three displays. Keep in mind that the monitors run in span mode; you can’t simply use the "extended" option. This looks like one of the simpler solutions.

Digital Tigers’ SideCar, $1,399 and up, can "drive up to four extra displays from a Windows XP/2000 notebook, or up to two extra displays from an Apple PowerBook," according to their web site. Not the cheapest solution, to be sure.

You may need new drivers to get your notebook to do this correctly—assuming that your notebook’s OS and video card will do it at all. See Realtime Soft’s Laptops guide for more details on multi-monitoring with notebook computers.
Debugging and Other Issues

You may have no trouble installing, configuring, and using your multi-monitor solution.

Or it may not go smoothly.

Mine sure didn’t. It worked fine at first. Then the second monitor worked fine through boot-up but the primary monitor went blank. I used the window-fishing technique discussed earlier to change which monitor was primary, but now my second monitor was blank. And then my computer wouldn’t boot beyond the BIOS splash screen. After I reloaded the drivers, it was working fine for a while. Now it isn’t again. Sigh.
Dealing with a KVM Switch

As I found out, one source of problems can be using a Keyboard Video Mouse (KVM) switch, which may not pass the signals through properly. I think I may need to learn and use the keyboard commands for computer-switching. Or that may not be the answer. (See this Realtime Soft Forum page for one user’s solution.)

Most KVM switches support one display, which has an interesting effect: You can have the second screen on the two-display system showing things while you’re working from the other computer. Some newer KVM switches are twin-head, so if you have multiple computers with two-video outputs, you can switch both monitors.

For initial debugging, follow these steps:

* Bypass the KVM switch, plugging the keyboard, mouse, and primary video directly into the computer.
* Make sure that your cables are plugged in properly.
* Make sure that both monitors work.
* Try reloading the video card drivers.
* Even if both displays seem to be working, you may have to fiddle around and do some research to obtain optimum performance.

Other Possible Problems

You may also have other problems. Realtime notes, "When using some applications (for example, a video player) on your secondary monitor(s), you might get distorted sound. This seems to be an issue with PCI bus bandwidth."

Even when you have everything running, you may want to do more tweaking to the display or for usability, because large and multiple monitors can lead to new issues. For instance, according to a Microsoft report, the Taskbar and Start menu location may be far from you, making it hard to invoke things. You may lose the cursor or experience "missile mouse."

To deal with these problems, Microsoft developed Start Anywhere, which "lets users invoke the Start menu from wherever the cursor is currently located. To invoke it, they can use the Windows key or a designated mouse or keyboard key; no mouse movement is required." Other large/multi-monitor utilities described in the report include Drag-and-Pop, which "stretches the object to the target location using a rubber-band-like visualization"; Tablecloth, which adapts the window scrolling motion to the entire desktop; and GroupBar, which "extends the current Windows Taskbar metaphor." See Patrick Baudisch’s projects page to find some of these tools. (Some may not have been posted yet.)

There’s also software to help tweak the settings on multiple monitor setups, such as VTBook’s VT MultiDisplay.
Summary

As I said at the start, the simplest solution would be a buy a new, bigger monitor. Given the headaches I’ve had so far, that’s clearly the case. But the realities of your desk space—distance to wall, whether you can position several monitors conveniently, etc.—may also rule out this possibility.

Having two screens to work with was cool, and seemed to be helpful...but things haven’t yet stayed working long enough for me to validate my "this will make me more productive" theory. I’m still pretty sure it will, and I’ve had fun researching, learning, and trying things out.

If you’re curious, but cautious about risking your production system, you might try a new video card on a spare system, or try using the "computer as monitor" software there. If you just have a second display, consider a Matrox DualHead2Go.

Or you may decide that a lower-end larger flat-panel is the best short-term and midterm workaround.

Daniel P. Dern is a freelance technology writer who currently has two 17-inch CRTs on his desk, and another four or five in the basement. His web site is http://www.dern.com.

What about switching the terminals the monitors are plugged in on?